Popular switches at the time included Zealios v2, Holy Pandas, Kailh Box Royals, or variations of Alps. With the holiday season bringing many discounts on electronics, it is the best time to build your own custom PC. Overall the build was a success with caveats. It is a high quality piece of kit and I suspect it will help my productivity substantially, if not minimising RSI. This is a guide to most, if not all, of the random questions new players will have when they first join Iris! I’m not a fan of either of them for different reasons. If I were to work with untreated metals again, I would ensure they are treated professionally before use. I wanted to preserve the beautiful gleam of the copper for as long as can and so I lacquered the plates. Iris build pics. A clean dust free area with plenty of ventilation. I’d like a keyboard that can do this without hindering my flow. QMK. 3, as it has a very similar construction. Below is the current iteration of layer definitions, using QMK firmware. Here's an inventory of what I bought during the build process: pdf. The result was a bubbly and inconsistent finish. Lacquer the unfinished copper on the switch plate. translation missing ... [PRE-ORDER] TOFU RGB 60% Hot swap Custom keyboard kit. My custom switch plates have arrived for my mech build, thanks @LaserBoost! Now that the small components were soldered on it was time to mount the switches. They’re not necessary, but nice to have. An alternative was the Helidox design which solved this problem, however I was not keen on the exposed boards on top. Now is a good place to note that as these boards were B-stock one came pre-soldered with a few reset switches, MOSFETs and other components (probably for testing). Another important consideration is how many keys I use on a daily basis. ... and to save AZIO having to build full and tenkeyless versions of the same device. I went with copper after settling on an industrial (but not quite cyberpunk) look. The lacquering process took several attempts with noticeable patina on the underside of the plates. Please consult the README guides for each firmware for specific instructions on how to use and compile it. Here is the final result, equipped with Kailh speed silver switches and DSA keycaps. The open design means the switch mounts are exposed however, so the board has a noticable clack when used. Additionally I never installed the LED under glow strip and I’m debating whether the build really needs it. I also could not run make keebio/iris/rev2:default:avrdude to flash the default key-mappings onto the micro-controllers as this required a two-stage reset and fiddling with the dodgy Caterina bootloader. Additionally the plates dried outside during one of the hottest summers on record and so the plastic layers cracked several times. That is, It doesn’t have arbitrary macros that can invoke arbitrary programs, with arbitrary symbols bound to keys, and an arbitrary number of layers I can switch out as needed. I would learn more about the fundamental components of firmware and driver get to design a board from the ground up. I’m excited to begin building the Iris, and I anticipate it should go pretty quickly. I have a Logitech G413 with the Romer-G switches and a Corsair with Cherry MX Browns. This will help with accessing these symbols as unicode, for which support is increasing. Placing the resistors in the correct spots. Iris PCBs with on-board controller and USB-C port. It is the Iris from keebio. As for user testing and firmware, I may write another post in the future. *Please note that the Iris 2 keyboard will turn yellow in response to notes you play on your MIDI keyboard. I followed the build guide on the keeb.io website when assembling the keyboard. Mount the switches onto the plate and PCB. Gifs sourced. Firstly, my custom keycaps were shipped from America and consequently got stuck in customs for 2 weeks. The build guide advises to perform this step after installing the switches. Taking Stock of Anomalies with F# and ML.NET. This process was repeated for the resistors too. Finished Iris Split Mechanical Keyboard build with a brushed copper plate, Zealios v2 67g, Iris Rev2 PCBs, and green LEDs to give a Copper Oxide effect without the rust. Iris Split Mechanical Keyboard Build A blog about my experience building my first split mechanical keyboard. Luckily the burn isn’t too visible. iris keyboard. After arrival and installation I discovered an unfortunate feature of the Pro micro: the weak soldering on the USB header. Good news is that once everything is sorted, I can apply my tenting system to any split keyboard and even regular boards. I have used several non-standard boards with different mechanical switches including my Vortex (MX Clears), a Roccat Ryos MK Pro (MX Black), a Filco Ninja Majestouch 2 (MX Brown), Apple Magic keyboard (Butterfly switches of doom), a Das model S (MX blues), and others. At this point in the build process I did some research to get an idea of how mechanical keyboards work, and consider which components would be best for me. Faith in my soldering is not ideal but necessary and falls into that uncomfortable space of problems that are fiddly to get right and outright unpleasant to adjust in small increments. 2 PCBs, see Iris Rev. While this build guide shows parts for the Iris, the build is very similar to that of the Levinson, as well as the Nyquist Rev. The build itself is very solid with the copper and acrylic base; there is no flex in the boards. The (almost) finished Iris keyboard and a Logitech M570 trackball mouse. 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